Life in Iqaluit

As I wrote recently, I was in Iqaluit Nunavut for 6 days. It was truly an eye opening experience. I have had the good fortune to travel and see most of Canada, from a sunset in Tofino BC to seeing a whale off the coast of Newfoundland. The sound of a loon on a foggy lake in Jasper to the majesty of old Quebec City. For the first time in my life I was north of the tree line, north of the 60th parallel and near Canada’s northern coast.

I must admit, even though I knew it was in the Arctic I was completely shocked when I arrived at the airport. After walking off the plane to the small terminal you are immediately greeted by the local Inuit selling carvings. But as with most people arriving you want to get your bag and get to the hotel. But they visit the restaurants and I saw some stunning pieces of art.

You quickly realise you are in a different area as you drive to the hotel. Dirt roads, no stop lights just 4 way signs, ATV’s driving down the road. Also, surprisingly pedestrians have the right of way. Cars and trucks actually stop and let pedestrians cross whether it is at a stop sign or not. Also any Blackberry or cell phone not on the bell network does not work.
The hotel is a centre of activity, a pub, dinging room, pool coffee shop and a cinema. You learn that to get anywhere you walk either on the road or by trails that traverse the tundra. Not formal trails but everyone uses them and they cut threw back yards.

The area looks like Newfoundland without trees. The rock and tough landscape that greeted our first settlers and explorers to the east coast must have looked familiar when they landed here. Robert Frobisher first landed here in 1576.

Iqaluit has one of the fastest and largest tides in the world. The harbour is not a deep water one and when the tide is out, the bottom of the harbour is shown. They use to ground ships, wait for the tide to go out and then unload them by walking it to shore. The fishermen leave their boats and during low tide you see them beached. You can easily walk ashore. Plans are being discussed to build a deep water harbour. That would open up trade as now ship supplies are only able to arrive by boat between roughly mid June to Mid September.
The whole community is self contained as the only road outside of town is the “Road to Nowhere” which goes to the old DEW (Distant Early Warning) line and a quarry. The airport has about 4 daily flights from Ottawa/Montreal and also connects with Yellowknife and points west.
Walking into the grocery store is price shock galore. 18 bucks for a big box of cornflakes, dog food was $96, diapers were almost 1$00. $12 for a watermelon, $5 for a Spanish onion. A family pack of pork chops for $28! Most people receive a monthly food allowance to offset the costs.
Wild blueberries grow everywhere and you see people out picking them on the hill sides. They are a delight as are the blackberries. Arctic Char is served in all the restaurants in a variety of ways, such as fish and chips or grilled. Elk, Caribou and Musk ox still are staples. The hunters make use of all the animals. The coats for fur or leather, the meat is almost all used. The sled dogs are fed the rudiments. Like the way it has been done for hundreds of years.

As you walk the streets everyone who passes nods and says hi. The traffic waits for you and you feel life moves at a slower pace. You realise you have entered a new time zone, northern time.

Iqaluit is the capital of Nunavut and has a population of about 7500. There is plenty of government services. Recently diamonds were discovered about 100 KM north and it is expected it could lead to a boom in the town. Some projections are it may grow to 20,000 in 16 years. Hopefully the idyllic lifestyle will remain and the infrastructure can keep pace.
After a few days I realised why people were drawn here , the 16 hours of daylight, the people, the fresh air, the calm water. The silence when you leave the town area by only a ½ mile, the northern lights.
Iqaluit is a city that is looking at a Sustainability plan for the next 100 years. They are dependent on almost all their food and supplies. All their hydro is from diesel generators, food and supplies are brought in mainly before the freeze up. Climate change is going to affect the city as it is built on permafrost. As it melts the land is boggy underneath. The homes are built for cold, not heat. The arena has partially sunk die to the permafrost melting.

I may never get back to the Arctic but hope to. It is truly an eye opening experience. One of those parts of Canada where you plan to go and do not end up their as a accidental tourist. I am fortunate to have been able to go.